
I know I’m supposed to say that Tik Tok is the end of the world and it’s killing our brains and it’s Literally So Over, but, sue me, I like it. I like it because when it comes to all the really basic, practical life stuff—stuff I’ve been really inept about for most of my life—there is a real human person on there to show me a better way. I think TikTok’s algorithm is probably the best on the internet right now, its search function is healthier than Google, and they’ve managed to keep AI slop at bay, against all odds. The excess of product hawkers can annoy me, but I’ve also found some really great products on the TikTok shop, and the UX/UI is seamless and intuitive, which I appreciate. Revoke my longform creds, I guess.
I have struggled to take care of my hair for most of my life, mostly because it’s actually extremely curly. When I was younger, it wasn’t cool to have curls, and no one gave a damn about hair health, anyway. My mom had pin straight hair. Curly-specific products for white girls didn’t really hit the market until DevaCurl, which ended up being a huge disaster that caused a lot of people to go bald. At one point, I got into the “No-Poo” method. Big mistake; gave me psoriasis. I once got a pixie in a fit of frustration and false confidence. Another big mistake; gave me an awkward stage rivaled only by puberty.
I hit a low point after the birth of my first, which I’ve written about many times now. Around 4 months postpartum, my hair started coming out in chunks. At one point my niece (bless her) found it funny that the baby and I had the same hairline. “It’s like an M!” Oof.
So I resolved to figure it out. I now have a pretty good routine going, thanks to a bunch of TikTok creators. My hair is healthier than it’s ever been. Let me show you what I’ve found:
Trauma. Scientific studies confirm a strong link between physical/emotional trauma and hair loss, primarily through neuroendocrine, immune, and hair follicle stem cell disruption. Trauma, including PTSD, induces high cortisol (or corticosterone in mice) that keeps hair follicles in a resting phase, causing conditions like Telogen Effluvium (shedding) or Alopecia Areata (patchy loss).
Weight loss. Scientific studies indicate that rapid weight loss, particularly following restrictive diets or bariatric surgery, often triggers a temporary form of hair shedding known as telogen effluvium. Research links this, as well as protein malnutrition, to a 25%–50% increase in hair follicle shedding. While often temporary, severe, rapid weight loss—more than 3 kg (6.6 lbs) a month—can cause significant hair loss in up to 40% of individuals. As intermittent fasting and GLP-1s become popular (by the way, contra Arthur Brooks, I think these are basically miracle drugs that more people should at least microdose), hair loss and thinning has become a problem.
Androgenic alopecia is the most common form of hereditary hair loss in men (male-pattern baldness) and women (female-pattern hair loss), caused by genetic susceptibility and the androgen hormone dihydrotestosterone (DHT). In any major hormonal event for women, when the estrogen hormone levels drop, women are more exposed to DHT.
Age. Studies in post-menopausal women (50-65) show over 50% experience thinning. The hair strands themselves become thinner due to changes in structural proteins within the hair follicles. The condition of the scalp over time also plays a major role: oxidative stress, UV radiation, and environmental damage to the scalp also contribute to the decline in follicular health.
Postpartum hair loss. In addition to the loss of estrogen exposing us the effects of DHT, long-term breastfeeding, pre-term labor, and birth trauma can have a significant impact on postpartum loss.
Insufficient washing. Contrary to some of the 2010s trendy advice, a dirty scalp is an inflamed scalp. Inflammation worsens shedding.
Not drying your roots. A damp scalp is a breeding ground for yeast and irritation, which contribute to things like dandruff and shedding.
Constant tension styles. Tight ponytails, buns, slick-backs, and sew-in extensions applied to the same spot daily cause traction alopecia. Claw clips are a much better alternative.
Hair is made of protein. If you’re under-eating, low-iron, or chronically depleted, no topical product will save you. Eat enough protein every day. Focus on red meat, whole milk, and seeds (flax, chia, pumpkin, sesame). Seed cycling, in my experience, has been an excellent way to regulate hormones, and science supports my anecdata here for postpartum or perimenopausal women.
DHT blockers reduce scalp-level DHT activity and stop miniaturization and shedding in its tracks. I endorse Advanced Trichology’s formula, but don’t take it at night, because I’ve found that it disrupts my sleep.
Lustriva is a patented compound of biotin + silicon that’s better absorbed than standard biotin supplements. It helps with hair shaft thickness, reduced shedding over time, nail strength (a bonus tell that it’s working). Studies show that a whopping 92% of women who take Lustriva experience new growth. I like Mary Ruth’s Morning and Nighttime liquid vitamins.
Gelatin supports hair growth through multiple complementary mechanisms. It increases peripheral blood flow via vasodilation, improving circulation to the hair follicle. It also delivers a broad spectrum of amino acids—the raw building blocks needed for keratin and follicle growth—directly through the bloodstream. Together, improved blood supply and amino acid availability may help keep hair follicles in the anagen (growth) phase longer, slow follicle miniaturization in androgenic alopecia, and support growth-promoting signaling within the follicle itself. I use this brand in all my soups and when I make rice.
Pumpkin Seed Oil and Saw Palmetto are natural alternatives that have demonstrated helpful, though not to the same degree as synthetic compounds.
Abbey Yung is a TikTok creator who created a haircare system basically based on the K-beauty theory of skin: above all, you need to clean yourself. Double cleansing becomes double shampooing. This practice has been absolutely game-changing for me. Buildup of products on the scalp and hair can lead to breakage and shedding. This is why no-poo was so bad, and why when it comes to products, you really have to find what works for you so that you aren’t inadvertently worsening the problem. My hair is curly and fine, and heavy products, even supposedly hydrating formulas, actually make it worse. I’ve linked my favorite products and detailed the process:
(Optional) Pre-treat with a scalp treatmentand oil your ends. Apply and leave in for 15 minutes before shampooing.
Alternate between a clarifying shampoo and dandruff shampoo for the first shampoo. These remove buildup, oil, and product residue, as well as treating the scalp. I treat my scalp like the hairdresser would, scratching my head and everything. Sofia the Hairloss Researcher is another creator I respect on the topic, whose focus is scalp care. She recommends Aminexil or Ketoconazole shampoo, which are both clinically proven to prevent follicle fibrosis and prolong the growth phase.
Hydrating shampoo. Keeps hair pliable without clogging follicles.
Conditioner or hair mask. Apply mid-lengths to ends only.
Leave-ins
Spray leave-in for lightweight hydration (apply thoroughly pre-blow dry)
Oil serum on the ends only to prevent breakage (apply after blow-dry)
Microneedling and massage stimulate growth factors and increase absorption of topicals (use cautiously and cleanly; be sure to soak you roller in alcohol to prevent bacterial growth).
You should follow microneedling with a treatment.
Topical minoxidil increases blood flow and extends growth phase. USE CAUTION. This is a product that once started, you can’t stop.
Oxydine has been clinically proven to strengthen hair strands at the root.
Red light therapy, I’ve heard, is beneficial, though I haven’t tried it.
Always use heat protection. The Pantene Spray I linked earlier is also a heat protectant. It’s important to apply this immediately after you get out of the shower, and in layers, so that you get more coverage.
Blow-dry your scalp. Not for volume—for health. Dry roots = calm skin.
Give yourself a blowout. Hair stretched smoothly breaks less than air-dried, tangled curls. After blow drying my roots, I use a reliable and relatively inexpensive knockoff of the Dyson to dry the ends, which is easier on the hair than a typical roundbrush. Though, to be honest, I kind of prefer the roundbrush.
Oil the ends, not the scalp.
I sleep in a bonnet to protect my hair from my restless thrashing.
